Download PDF For Fukui's Sake: Two years in rural Japan By Sam Baldwin
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Ebook About Far from the high-tech, high-rise of the super-cities, there lies another Japan.A Japan where snakes slither down school corridors, where bears prowl dark forests and where Westerners are still regarded as curious creatures. Welcome to the world of the inaka – the Japanese countryside.Unhappily employed in the UK, Sam Baldwin decides to make a big change. Saying sayonara to laboratory life, he takes a job as an English teacher in a small, rural Japanese town that no one – the Japanese included – has ever heard of.Arriving in Fukui, where there’s ‘little reason to linger’ according to the guidebook, at first he wonders why he left England. But as he slowly settles in to his unfamiliar new home, Sam befriends a colourful cast of locals and begins to discover the secrets of this little known region.Helped by headmasters, housewives and Himalayan mountain climbers, he immerses himself in a Japan still clutching its pastoral past and uncovers a landscape of lonely lakes, rice fields and lush mountain forests. Joining a master drummer’s taiko class, skiing over paddies and learning how to sharpen samurai swords, along the way Sam encounters farmers, fishermen and foreigners behaving badly.Exploring Japan’s culture and cuisine, as well as its wild places and wildlife, For Fukui’s Sake is an adventurous, humorous and sometimes poignant insight into the frustrations and fascinations that face an outsider living in small town, backcountry Japan.Book For Fukui's Sake: Two years in rural Japan Review :
FOR FUKUI’S SAKESAM BALDWINFrustrated and bored by his menial tasks as a laboratory assistant in the UK, author Sam Baldwin decides at the age of 25 to apply through the Japanese Exchange and Teaching Program (JET) for a two-year stint as an English teacher. He is accepted and assigned a position as a “sensei” (teacher) at Kamisho Junior High in Ono, a city of roughly 32,000 souls, located in Fukui Prefecture on the Sea of Japan approximately 980 km southwest of Misawa Air Base.Baldwin is an energetic, athletic young man with a young man’s curiosity and wide range of interests and his two years on Honshu are not spent entirely in the classroom. With a mixed group of English and Japanese citizens, he makes the requisite climb of Mt. Fuji (“A wise man climbs Fuji once,” it is said, “but only a fool climbs it twice.”) Later the author befriends a Japanese bar owner who is also a renowned climber who has scaled many hazardous peaks both in and out of Japan. With his newfound friend Baldwin is able to indulge his taste for sake with his love of climbing.Along the way, the newly hired teacher also acquires a taste for cold canned coffee from the ever-present vending machines and a well-founded fear of the dentists near his house in Ono. He visits the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo where he is astonished at the price a whole black fin tuna brings at auction. Baldwin takes lesssons from a master taiko drummer only to learn, to his regret, that he would be wise to keep his day job. He is fascinated by the skills of a native sword sharpener (togishi), frustrated at times by the Japanese adherence to “rules” – he was turned away from a completely empty campsite on Hokkaido because he didn’t have a reservation. He protests vehemently but the camp manager shrugs and says, “Rule.” The manager does, however, soothe over the author’s feelings by offering him a beer. Everywhere, it seems, people offer the foreign teacher a beer (no “rule” against that, I guess) and he is only too happy to oblige.In one of the most interesting chapters, Baldwin discusses how the Japanese traditionally work long hours but relax at after-hours gatherings called “enkai.” As is said of the American city of Las Vegas, “What happens at the enkai stays at the enkai.” That’s probably a good thing because the essentially formal and staid Japanese teachers tend to let their hair down at the enkai. Things get pretty wild at times.I attended many an enkai myself while stationed at Misawa. We called them “roll calls.” I like this book a lot because it's about the Japan most people don't expect---the wild and beautiful Japan. The Japan off the beaten track.Mr. Baldwin was hired by the JET program to teach English in rural Japan. Sam Baldwin wanted to be in rural Japan because he hoped to pursue his interests in snowboarding, hiking, climbing and just being in the great outdoors. He found the perfect people to help him explore those areas and took advantage of everything that area of Japan had to offer. I especially liked that he took the school dog on very long walks which were great adventures for the dog, I am sure, and a wonderful way for Sam to gain intimate knowledge of the country surrounding the school.I liked hearing about Sam's rural adventures and I also like that he traveled to other areas of Japan. There are a lot of books written by westerners who lived in Japan a couple of years. My pet peeve is that they assume that all of Japan is exactly like where they lived. As another reviewer said, "Japan is a contradiction". You cannot know Japan by visiting one place. I have been all over Japan many times and have found that each area is as different in culture and geography as each state in the U.S. is different from every other state. Sam did travel to large cities, but he also went to Hokkaido which is very different from the other three main islands.The author did mention that his girlfriend came to Japan about the same time he did. Unlike other readers I was relieved not to hear about his girlfriend. I wanted to hear about Japan, not his love life. And the comment "about his manhood" that another reviewer mentioned was not exactly that. It was a tiny, tiny comment that was not personal. Nothing to focus on.The writing was competent--so much more so than most of these books. I am not surprised Mr. Baldwin went on to become an editor and writer.There are a few really great books about living in Japan especially the books by Alan Booth. I also liked At Home in Japan by Rebecca Otowa and The Road Through Miyama by Leila Philip. Oh, and I loved A Ride in the Neon Sun by Josie Dew--once I got through the first 90 pages. And then there are a few really horrible books. There are a lot of okay books and there are some that are better than okay like For Fukui's Sake. Even some of the not so great ones are very entertaining like Memoirs of a Gaijin which is very poorly spelled and written, but fun. For Fukui's Sake, in my opinion is above average and, for me, interesting.My only disappointment is that he had not been back to Japan. I hope he has returned since the book was published. 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